The short answer
Santorini makes some of the most distinctive white wine on earth, and almost all of it comes from one grape: Assyrtiko. Grown on dry, phylloxera-free volcanic soil, on ungrafted old vines trained into low basket shapes, Santorini’s whites are bone-dry, searingly high in acidity, and unmistakably saline and mineral — they taste of the sea and the rock. The island also produces Nykteri (a richer, barrel-aged white) and Vinsanto (a sun-dried sweet wine that can age for decades). It is, in short, one of the world’s great white-wine terroirs — on a Cycladic island better known for its sunsets.
Why the terroir is unlike anywhere else
Three things make Santorini singular:
- Volcanic soil. The island’s soil — locally called aspa — is a mix of pumice, volcanic ash and sand, with almost no clay or organic matter. Crucially, phylloxera cannot survive in it, so Santorini’s vines are ungrafted (own-rooted), and some vineyards are well over a century old.
- Almost no rain. Santorini is arid and relentlessly windy. The vines survive largely on humidity drawn from the night air and morning fog.
- The basket vine (kouloura). To cope with the wind and capture that humidity, growers train each vine into a low, woven basket on the ground, with the grapes growing protected inside. It is one of the most distinctive viticultural sights in the world — and it is increasingly rare and labour-intensive to maintain.
The combination — old ungrafted vines, mineral-rich volcanic soil, sea air and brutal sun — is why Santorini Assyrtiko tastes the way it does, and why it cannot be convincingly copied elsewhere.
The wines of Santorini
PDO Santorini (dry white). The flagship. Predominantly Assyrtiko (at least 75%), with the indigenous Athiri and Aidani permitted. Bone-dry, high-acid, citrus-and-stone, with a saline finish. PDO Santorini was established in 1971, among the first appellations in Greece.
Nykteri. A traditional Santorini style — historically harvested at night (nykta) — made from riper grapes and aged in barrel. Fuller, more textured and higher in alcohol than the standard dry white, while keeping the island’s signature acidity.
Vinsanto. Santorini’s historic sweet wine, made from sun-dried Assyrtiko, Athiri and Aidani, then aged for years (the best for decades) in barrel. Expect caramel, dried apricot, fig and salted nuts, all held together by electric acidity. One of the most ageworthy sweet wines in the world.
Reds. A small amount of red is grown, chiefly the indigenous Mavrotragano and Mandilaria — niche, but increasingly sought after.
Wineries worth visiting
Santorini is one of the most rewarding wine-tasting destinations in Greece, several estates with caldera views. Names to know:
- Estate Argyros — old vines and a benchmark Vinsanto programme; some of the island’s finest aged Assyrtiko.
- Gaia Wines — the Thalassitis and Thalassitis Wild Ferment Assyrtikos; internationally distributed.
- Santo Wines — the island cooperative, with a spectacular caldera-view tasting terrace and a broad, reliable range.
- Venetsanos — a historic winery built into the cliff above the caldera.
- Hatzidakis, Vassaltis and Artemis Karamolegos — terroir-focused estates making serious, modern Santorini.
- Mikra Thira — the first winery on the neighbouring island of Therasia, founded by Vangelis Gerovassiliou, Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and Ioanna Vamvakouri. Old ungrafted Assyrtiko vines, many over 80 years old; its Terrasea bottling comes exclusively from Therasia fruit, alongside its Santorini and Nykteri.
- Domaine Sigalas — a pioneer of the modern Santorini era, based near Oia; benchmark Assyrtiko (including the single-vineyard Kavalieros) and a champion of the indigenous red Mavrotragano.
Book tastings ahead in summer, and try to taste an aged Assyrtiko and a Vinsanto side by side — it is the fastest way to understand what the island can do.
Don’t overlook Therasia
Across the caldera lies Therasia — the small, quiet island that was part of Santorini until the great Bronze Age eruption (around 1600 BC) tore the caldera open. It shares Santorini’s volcanic soil and old ungrafted vines, falls under the same PDO Santorini, and sees a fraction of the tourists. Its viticulture is being revived — led by Mikra Thira near the village of Potamos — making the short boat trip across one of the most authentic wine experiences in the Cyclades.
What to eat with Santorini wine
Santorini Assyrtiko is built for the Aegean table: grilled fish and seafood, oysters, octopus, tomatokeftedes (Santorini tomato fritters), capers, and the island’s own fava (yellow split-pea purée). Its acidity and salinity make it one of the most food-friendly whites in the world. Save the Vinsanto for dessert — or for blue cheese.
For a pairing matched to your exact dish, try our e-SOM Digital Sommelier.
When to go, and a note on the future
Santorini’s vineyards are under pressure: tourism has driven up land values, vineyard area has shrunk, and the labour-intensive basket vines are harder to maintain each year. That makes the island’s wine both more precious and more expensive — and a strong reason to drink it, and visit its wineries, with intention.
Read next: What Is Assyrtiko, and Why Does It Matter for Greek Wine?, Seven Greek Wineries Every Wine Lover Should Know, and Best Greek Whites for Fish.